Van Gogh’s Piece of Peace

Vincent Van Gogh found a speck of peace at Sain-Paul de Mausole, just outside Saint Rémy.  An air of grace lingers through the gardens. The light he loved spills onto an endless source of outdoor subjects he could have painted.  Day after day, the kind, patient nuns and nurses created a safe sanctuary for him to put aside the emotional pain that had dominated his life, so he could find a little sanity through his work.  During his stay of 53 weeks, this fragile artist produced 143 paintings and 10 drawings.

"Starry Night" Van Gogh 1889

His famous “Starry Night”, Irises”, “Vase with Irises” and several views of the courtyard came to life through his hand during this time.

Vincent left Saint-Paul on 16th May 1890 and spent four days with his younger brother Theo and his family in Paris.  Then he continued north to Auvers-sur-Oise.

"Wheatfields Under Clouded Sky" Van Gogh July 1890

On 27th July he walked out into a wheat field and he shot himself. He was only 37 years old when he died from the wounds two days later in his small upstairs bedroom at the Auberge Ravoux.  Theo died just six months later and today they lie side by side behind Notre Dame d’Auvers.

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Van Gogh and Saint Rémy

Bedroom in Arles, 1888

Van Gogh never found true fulfillment, he couldn’t figure out who he was supposed to be.  Painting was his only voice. One of the cool Bohemien things to do during the late 1800s, especially in the night clubs of Paris – was to drink a green concoction, obscenely high in alcohol content, called Absinthe. 

It has also been called the Green Fairy and immortalized in paintings by Degas, Manet and Toulouse Lautrec. It was banned in 1915 through most of Europe and the US but was reborn during the 1990s.

Vincent Van Gogh was born with a brain lesion. Some doctors think that his consumption of Absinthe may have aggravated the lesion in his head. He had epileptic seizures and psychotic events. One night in Arles he had an argument with Gauguin, his room mate and threatened him with a razor. Then in a remorseful panic, Vincent took a slice of flesh from his own earlobe. It is said that he offered it to a prostitute as a gift. I’m certain she’d have preferred a painting.
Vincent was most likely bi-polar and in between his manic depressive bouts when he was lucid, he painted flat out.  On 8th May 1889, under the weight of his failing health he went north east from Arles to Saint Rémy. Here he admitted himself to Saint-Paul de Mausole monastery and asylum. That’s another story, one of great creativity.  Next post.

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Van Gogh in Arles

Van Gogh - Self Portraint with Bandaged Ear

Van Gogh struggled all of his life but out of that struggle came some incredible beauty. This Dutchman became one of the most famous artists of history, partly because of his lifestyle, but essentially because after his death his sister in law Johanna gathered up his work and made it her life’s work to make him a success.

Vincent was the son of a pastor and became one himself for a while.  But the call to paint was strong than his religious calling so he de-frocked and studied art – first in Belgium and then in Paris. Here he met the big guns of Impressionism – Monet, Pissarro, Gauguin.  This is when he began using vivid colour and the tiny brushstrokes typical of that movement. But Van Gogh didn’t hit his straps until he moved to Provence in early 1888. He hoped his painting mates would follow and they would start an art school.  Gauguin was up for it and the two shared digs in Arles.  But that was short lived. 

Still Life: Vase with Twelve Sunflowers, Van Gogh 1888

During his stay in Arles, Vincent produced some of his most famous paintings.  Who hasn’t seen one of the many versions of “Sunflowers”?  There’s usually a print hanging in the school library.  But there was a far more prolific period to come.  That’s the next “Speaking of France” story.

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Sunshine in Saint Rémy

With spring chasing away the chill of winter in Europe, thoughts will be on finding a patch of warmth and golden sunshine. Many will take to the south, to places like Provence. Saint Rémy de Provence is a small town of around ten thousand people, 20km south of Avignon. The town is a living photo album.  But it’s far from a sleepy village in the French countryside. A totally blind person could take stunning photographs in the ancient village.  Hold up the camera, shoot.

The boulevards, the narrow cobblestone streets that wind through the old city, central shopping precinct and the fountains dedicated to the town’s most famous resident are all fodder for the photographer. Michel de Notredame is better known as Nostradamus.  He was born in this town in 1503.  He studied medicine and became a very skilful and innovative doctor but he is best remembered for his predictions.  His book “Centuries” contained nine hundred predictions for the world, written in verse. 

The famous still come to Saint Rémy. Princess Caroline of Monaco is said to have a home here and unnamed movie stars can take a coffee and croissant in the cafés on the cool and shady La Place Jean-Jaures. Here they can avoid the limelight and enjoy a little peace and semi anonymity despite the fact that the village has become a tourist enclave. That could be true because I see zero celebs during my week-long stay. This is one classy town oozing style, activity and relics of the Romans.  Glanum wasn’t unearthed until the 1920s, but it had been sitting there minding its own business since the bronze age. Glanum is now one of the most important Roman excavations in France.  Saint Rémy is also close to where Vincent Van Gogh spent his most productive painting year, at Saint-Paul de Mausole monastery and asylum.

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Remembrance And Honour

25th April is an important day in Australia – more important than Australia Day.  It’s the day we remember and honour the men who fought in the Australian and New Zealand Army Corps during WW1. It falls on the anniversary of the landing at Gallipoli, Turkey in 1915. We call them ANZACs but as time has passed, and subsequent wars have claimed more of our soldiers, the ANZAC tradition has broadened to include all who have risked and sometimes lost their lives for the freedom of our country and its allies.  Thousands of Australians make the pilgrimage to Gallipoli for the dawn service. Anzac day is one of the most spiritual and solemn days of the year.
So what does this have to do with France?  During a visit to France, I made my own pilgrimage to the scene of one of the most pivotal battles of WW2.  Normandy.  There were no Aussie soldiers in the allied landings, but it is still a chilling reminder of how the destiny of the world would have been much different if it weren’t for the bravery demonstrated that day.
I stood alone on the beach at Omaha and looked out to sea, where these saviours in boats came to risk everything.  Gratitude oozed from the pores of my skin. It was not my country of birth that had been liberated from an oppressive regime, but the country that seems to have chosen me to be a staunch ally, like the men in those boats.

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EGGS AND FISH OF CHOCOLATE

Paris is a city with plenty of churches, and almost enough Chocolatiers!  And each year around this time, these two things come into sharp focus for Pâques – the French term for Easter. And naturalement – the French do the chocolate thing with panache.  Easter is about renewal, new life represented by the egg. Chocolate of course. 

But that’s not all you’ll see in the gloriously decorated chocolate shop windows. There will be rabbits, chickens and ducks. While we associate fish with Good Friday, in France, that is a normal working day and their fish giving begins on April 1st.  Cheeky children will tag the back of an adult with a paper fish as an April Fool trick poisson d’Avril. The acceptable adult response is to give the kids chocolate fish! 

Église Saint-Laurent

Flying chocolate bells cloche volants represent the traditional idea that on Good Friday, all the church bells in France fly off to the Vatican, taking with them the sadness of the crucifixion.  They return, refreshed to ring out the resurrection on Easter Sunday. And they bring with them, a selection of delectable eggs to be discovered by children all across France.

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Promenades on Grand Boulevards

In 1852 when Emperor Napoleon III (nephew of the other Napoleon) was ruling over the Second Empire – he hired a city planner, grandly called Baron Haussmann to clean up the slums and modernize Paris.  The Emperor was aiming for a more functional and economically prosperous city. It seemed brutal at the time, essentially removing the lower classes from the city, but residents and tourists to this exquisite city are now the beneficiaries of the results.  Haussmann created the twelve wide, tree lined boulevards that are now intrinsically Paris. 

But it wasn’t all about creating beautiful streets for the rich French to live on and the others to stroll along. The authorities wanted wide streets to prevent rebels from erecting barricades, as they did with the narrow alleys.  They wanted avenues like boulevard de Strasbourg that were wide enough for a battalion of soldiers to move from main railway stations like Gare de l’Est and Gare du Nord to the centre of the city.

on the boulevade St.Denis

 

The Baron (not an inherited noble title, but one he was granted as a member of the Senate) also decreed uniform building heights – a decision I fully applaud. The lack of high rise is one of this city’s most appealing aesthetics.  He also made the Arc de Triomphe the pivot of his radiating avenues – as well as the Grand Opera House.


The practical reason for the wide boulevards may have been based on infrastructure, but the bonus has been some of the world’s most engaging streets for strolling.

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TUTUS AND PAS DES DEUX

The Palais Garnier is opulent architecture, but with enough restraint to prevent that opulence overflowing into excess.  It’s a perfect match for the Pont Alexandre III, having the reputation as the most beautiful bridge in Paris.  The Paris Opera is certainly a contender for the most beautiful building, depending on your taste. The elegant building was completed in 1875 during the Second Empire of Napoleon III.
During the emperor’s famous clean up of the city, Baron Haussmann was authorised to clear 1.2 hectares for this elegant home for the Paris Opera and Ballet.  There was a competition to select an architect, won by Charles Garnier. An audience of almost two thousand are able to attend a performance in one of the world’s most famous opera houses.  Part of that fame comes from its “role” in the Gaston Leroux novel “The Phantom of the Opera” written in 1911 and adapted in the 1980s for stage and film by Andrew Lloyd Webber.

I love the exuberance of the statuary along the plainer side street walls.

When you look at the front facade, the beautifully balanced windows and arches are crowned with regal roof and side sculptures.

And when you scan the facade, there are tributes to musicians, writers and deities of the creative arts.  In the 1980s, the opera moved to its new home in the Bastille.  Now the extravagant splendour of Garnier is home to the Paris Opera Ballet – the oldest national ballet company in the world.

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Back Door Bliss

In the 6th arrondisement of Paris is one of my favourite and most enchanting places to explore. It’s an almost hidden passageway in the Germain-Des-Prés neighbourhood, not far from Odéon metro stop.  This little gem of an arcade opened in the mid 18th century (three decades before my country was settled). It is called “Cours du Commerce Saint-André” – the trade courtyard to rue Saint-André and it connects this to the Boulevard Saint-Germain. This roughly cobbled little passageway is where you find the back entrance to Le Procope – the oldest restaurant in Paris. 
A few metres away is another rear entrance to the brasserie Relais Odeon.  This is the historic side, the true origin of the turn of the century La Belle Époque.  The word “restaurant” (from the French word “restaurer” to restore) was first used around the same time this arcade was built.

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Blessed are the Cheese Makers

France is said to have a cheese for every day of the year.  It is an important part of the meal in France, served with bread at the end of a meal.  The markets and supermarkets have a range of cheese that will befuddle those not versed in fromage, stun the traveller with the vast assortment.  There is a cheese for every occasion, for every taste. They come in small blobs to enormous wheels.  I think I love looking at the range of French cheese as much as I love to eat it. Possibly more.  The most popular choice is Camembert, that luscious circle of creaminess from a village in Normandy. It was created in the 18th century, so it’s rather new on the menu! 

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